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Is second-hand the silver bullet for sustainable fashion consumption?

Chetty, Emma-Kate LU (2022) In IIIEE Master Thesis IMEM01 20221
The International Institute for Industrial Environmental Economics
Abstract
Within the circular economy, alternatives to fast-fashion include second-hand clothing consumption. The narratives surrounding second-hand clothing have shifted from the stigma of old, dirty, smelly clothing to trendy, sustainable, and bargain items. The environmental benefits of second-hand are realised through the increased use-intensity and avoided production of new garments. However, these benefits rely on key assumptions about consumption behaviour which include the 1:1 ratio of replacement of new items with second-hand. This assumption is highly questionable, thus the potential for rebound effects should not be ignored. Using social practice theory, this study aims to investigate the practice of second-hand consumption and uses the... (More)
Within the circular economy, alternatives to fast-fashion include second-hand clothing consumption. The narratives surrounding second-hand clothing have shifted from the stigma of old, dirty, smelly clothing to trendy, sustainable, and bargain items. The environmental benefits of second-hand are realised through the increased use-intensity and avoided production of new garments. However, these benefits rely on key assumptions about consumption behaviour which include the 1:1 ratio of replacement of new items with second-hand. This assumption is highly questionable, thus the potential for rebound effects should not be ignored. Using social practice theory, this study aims to investigate the practice of second-hand consumption and uses the insights to investigate rebound effects. The key results show that there are both economic and psychological rebound mechanisms present within second-hand markets. The income effect (economic) shows that consumers purchase more second-hand items due to the low prices. Moral licensing (psychological) shows that consumers become less critical of overconsumption because second-hand purchasing is considered morally good since it is sustainable. Alternatively, they feel good about not purchasing fast-fashion. This study has shown that the environmental benefits of second-hand clothing consumption may be overstated due to consumer behaviour. Overall, it is recommended that further investigation into rebound effects be completed to replicate the findings of this study with a larger sample and strategies that promote lower consumption rates should be prioritised by governments, businesses, and consumers. (Less)
Please use this url to cite or link to this publication:
author
Chetty, Emma-Kate LU
supervisor
organization
alternative title
Understanding second-hand clothing consumption rebound effects
course
IMEM01 20221
year
type
H2 - Master's Degree (Two Years)
subject
keywords
Second-hand clothing, moral licensing, rebound effects, social practice theory
publication/series
IIIEE Master Thesis
report number
2022:08
ISSN
1401-9191
language
English
id
9097155
date added to LUP
2022-08-15 13:35:21
date last changed
2022-08-15 13:35:21
@misc{9097155,
  abstract     = {{Within the circular economy, alternatives to fast-fashion include second-hand clothing consumption. The narratives surrounding second-hand clothing have shifted from the stigma of old, dirty, smelly clothing to trendy, sustainable, and bargain items. The environmental benefits of second-hand are realised through the increased use-intensity and avoided production of new garments. However, these benefits rely on key assumptions about consumption behaviour which include the 1:1 ratio of replacement of new items with second-hand. This assumption is highly questionable, thus the potential for rebound effects should not be ignored. Using social practice theory, this study aims to investigate the practice of second-hand consumption and uses the insights to investigate rebound effects. The key results show that there are both economic and psychological rebound mechanisms present within second-hand markets. The income effect (economic) shows that consumers purchase more second-hand items due to the low prices. Moral licensing (psychological) shows that consumers become less critical of overconsumption because second-hand purchasing is considered morally good since it is sustainable. Alternatively, they feel good about not purchasing fast-fashion. This study has shown that the environmental benefits of second-hand clothing consumption may be overstated due to consumer behaviour. Overall, it is recommended that further investigation into rebound effects be completed to replicate the findings of this study with a larger sample and strategies that promote lower consumption rates should be prioritised by governments, businesses, and consumers.}},
  author       = {{Chetty, Emma-Kate}},
  issn         = {{1401-9191}},
  language     = {{eng}},
  note         = {{Student Paper}},
  series       = {{IIIEE Master Thesis}},
  title        = {{Is second-hand the silver bullet for sustainable fashion consumption?}},
  year         = {{2022}},
}