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Direct Formula to Compute Wave Height and Angle at Incipient Breaking

Larson, Magnus LU ; Le Xuan, Hoan LU and Hanson, Hans LU (2010) In Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 136(2). p.119-122
Abstract
The purpose of this technical note is to present a new formula to compute the incipient breaking wave properties based on a simplified solution of the wave energy flux conservation equation combined with Snell's law. The execution time and calculated results of the new formula were compared with those of the iterative method which is commonly used in coastal engineering calculations, including in shoreline response modeling. The new formula could be used instead of the iterative method to save calculation time for application in coastal engineering.
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author
organization
publishing date
type
Contribution to journal
publication status
published
subject
keywords
Iterative method, Wave condition, Wave energy flux, Wave properties, Breaking wave, Incipient breaking, New formula
in
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering
volume
136
issue
2
pages
119 - 122
publisher
American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE)
external identifiers
  • wos:000274523900005
  • scopus:77950665961
ISSN
0733-950X
DOI
10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000030
project
MERGE
language
English
LU publication?
yes
id
2fbf5d1e-ae91-4bf0-8688-67881a78749a (old id 1568879)
date added to LUP
2010-03-17 10:37:09
date last changed
2018-05-29 12:05:25
@article{2fbf5d1e-ae91-4bf0-8688-67881a78749a,
  abstract     = {The purpose of this technical note is to present a new formula to compute the incipient breaking wave properties based on a simplified solution of the wave energy flux conservation equation combined with Snell's law. The execution time and calculated results of the new formula were compared with those of the iterative method which is commonly used in coastal engineering calculations, including in shoreline response modeling. The new formula could be used instead of the iterative method to save calculation time for application in coastal engineering.},
  author       = {Larson, Magnus and Le Xuan, Hoan and Hanson, Hans},
  issn         = {0733-950X},
  keyword      = {Iterative method,Wave condition,Wave energy flux,Wave properties,Breaking wave,Incipient breaking,New formula},
  language     = {eng},
  number       = {2},
  pages        = {119--122},
  publisher    = {American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE)},
  series       = {Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering},
  title        = {Direct Formula to Compute Wave Height and Angle at Incipient Breaking},
  url          = {http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000030},
  volume       = {136},
  year         = {2010},
}