Direct Formula to Compute Wave Height and Angle at Incipient Breaking
(2010) In Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 136(2). p.119-122- Abstract
- The purpose of this technical note is to present a new formula to compute the incipient breaking wave properties based on a simplified solution of the wave energy flux conservation equation combined with Snell's law. The execution time and calculated results of the new formula were compared with those of the iterative method which is commonly used in coastal engineering calculations, including in shoreline response modeling. The new formula could be used instead of the iterative method to save calculation time for application in coastal engineering.
Please use this url to cite or link to this publication:
https://lup.lub.lu.se/record/1568879
- author
- Larson, Magnus LU ; Le Xuan, Hoan LU and Hanson, Hans LU
- organization
- publishing date
- 2010
- type
- Contribution to journal
- publication status
- published
- subject
- keywords
- Iterative method, Wave condition, Wave energy flux, Wave properties, Breaking wave, Incipient breaking, New formula
- in
- Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering
- volume
- 136
- issue
- 2
- pages
- 119 - 122
- publisher
- American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE)
- external identifiers
-
- wos:000274523900005
- scopus:77950665961
- ISSN
- 0733-950X
- DOI
- 10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000030
- language
- English
- LU publication?
- yes
- id
- 2fbf5d1e-ae91-4bf0-8688-67881a78749a (old id 1568879)
- date added to LUP
- 2016-04-01 14:09:22
- date last changed
- 2022-03-21 22:28:05
@article{2fbf5d1e-ae91-4bf0-8688-67881a78749a, abstract = {{The purpose of this technical note is to present a new formula to compute the incipient breaking wave properties based on a simplified solution of the wave energy flux conservation equation combined with Snell's law. The execution time and calculated results of the new formula were compared with those of the iterative method which is commonly used in coastal engineering calculations, including in shoreline response modeling. The new formula could be used instead of the iterative method to save calculation time for application in coastal engineering.}}, author = {{Larson, Magnus and Le Xuan, Hoan and Hanson, Hans}}, issn = {{0733-950X}}, keywords = {{Iterative method; Wave condition; Wave energy flux; Wave properties; Breaking wave; Incipient breaking; New formula}}, language = {{eng}}, number = {{2}}, pages = {{119--122}}, publisher = {{American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE)}}, series = {{Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering}}, title = {{Direct Formula to Compute Wave Height and Angle at Incipient Breaking}}, url = {{http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000030}}, doi = {{10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000030}}, volume = {{136}}, year = {{2010}}, }