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Model of nearshore random wave transformation : validation against laboratory and field data

Nam, Pham Thanh; Larson, Magnus LU ; Hanson, Hans LU and Oumeraci, Hocine (2017) In Ocean Engineering 135. p.183-193
Abstract

This paper presents a two-dimensional numerical model of nearshore random wave transformation with a focus on model calibration and verification with both laboratory and field data. The model is based on the energy balance equation including diffraction and dissipation terms (Mase, 2001). The energy dissipation is determined based on the formulation by Dally et al. (1985), with new expressions for the stable wave height and decay coefficients. These coefficients are estimated based on the local beach slope and offshore wave conditions. The model is calibrated with several data sets from the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility (LSTF) at the Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory in USA. Then, the model is verified against a large number... (More)

This paper presents a two-dimensional numerical model of nearshore random wave transformation with a focus on model calibration and verification with both laboratory and field data. The model is based on the energy balance equation including diffraction and dissipation terms (Mase, 2001). The energy dissipation is determined based on the formulation by Dally et al. (1985), with new expressions for the stable wave height and decay coefficients. These coefficients are estimated based on the local beach slope and offshore wave conditions. The model is calibrated with several data sets from the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility (LSTF) at the Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory in USA. Then, the model is verified against a large number of data sets, including LSTF data for cases with structures, laboratory data from the Great Wave Flume in Hanover, the field data from Egmond in the Netherlands, Duck in USA, and Cancun in Mexico. The validation showed that the model could reproduce the observations well. The relative root-mean-square error varies from 5% to 7.6% for laboratory data, and from 10.3% to 18.6% for field data. The coefficient of determination varies from 0.81 to 0.97, demonstrating good agreement between the model and the measurements.

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author
organization
publishing date
type
Contribution to journal
publication status
published
subject
keywords
Energy dissipation, Model calibration, Model verification, Numerical modeling, Random waves, Wave transformation
in
Ocean Engineering
volume
135
pages
11 pages
publisher
Elsevier
external identifiers
  • scopus:85014965629
  • wos:000400040400014
ISSN
0029-8018
DOI
10.1016/j.oceaneng.2017.02.023
language
English
LU publication?
yes
id
462efadd-307e-468d-9d59-7c4b9c81986c
date added to LUP
2017-03-23 07:20:53
date last changed
2018-01-07 11:56:39
@article{462efadd-307e-468d-9d59-7c4b9c81986c,
  abstract     = {<p>This paper presents a two-dimensional numerical model of nearshore random wave transformation with a focus on model calibration and verification with both laboratory and field data. The model is based on the energy balance equation including diffraction and dissipation terms (Mase, 2001). The energy dissipation is determined based on the formulation by Dally et al. (1985), with new expressions for the stable wave height and decay coefficients. These coefficients are estimated based on the local beach slope and offshore wave conditions. The model is calibrated with several data sets from the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility (LSTF) at the Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory in USA. Then, the model is verified against a large number of data sets, including LSTF data for cases with structures, laboratory data from the Great Wave Flume in Hanover, the field data from Egmond in the Netherlands, Duck in USA, and Cancun in Mexico. The validation showed that the model could reproduce the observations well. The relative root-mean-square error varies from 5% to 7.6% for laboratory data, and from 10.3% to 18.6% for field data. The coefficient of determination varies from 0.81 to 0.97, demonstrating good agreement between the model and the measurements.</p>},
  author       = {Nam, Pham Thanh and Larson, Magnus and Hanson, Hans and Oumeraci, Hocine},
  issn         = {0029-8018},
  keyword      = {Energy dissipation,Model calibration,Model verification,Numerical modeling,Random waves,Wave transformation},
  language     = {eng},
  month        = {05},
  pages        = {183--193},
  publisher    = {Elsevier},
  series       = {Ocean Engineering},
  title        = {Model of nearshore random wave transformation : validation against laboratory and field data},
  url          = {http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2017.02.023},
  volume       = {135},
  year         = {2017},
}