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Statistical analysis of coastal morphological data sets over seasonal to decadal time scales

Kroon, Aart ; Larson, Magnus LU ; Moeller, Iris ; Yokoki, Hiromune ; Rozynski, Grzegorz ; Cox, Jon and Larroude, Philippe (2008) In Coastal Engineering 55(7-8). p.581-600
Abstract
Statistical analysis of long-term morphological data on coastal sedimentary features provides important information on the processes governing these features and their evolution in space and time. In this paper, seasonal, yearly and decadal (i.e. long-term) behavior of coastal morphological features is derived from field data by using both simple and advanced statistical techniques. The sedimentary features which we are especially focusing on are a) nearshore bars, and b) large-scale shoreline undulations, for example, longshore sand waves and nesses. High-quality bathymetric field data of regularly sampled cross-shore profiles and shorelines were the basis of the available data sets at Noordwijk beach (The Netherlands), Duck, North... (More)
Statistical analysis of long-term morphological data on coastal sedimentary features provides important information on the processes governing these features and their evolution in space and time. In this paper, seasonal, yearly and decadal (i.e. long-term) behavior of coastal morphological features is derived from field data by using both simple and advanced statistical techniques. The sedimentary features which we are especially focusing on are a) nearshore bars, and b) large-scale shoreline undulations, for example, longshore sand waves and nesses. High-quality bathymetric field data of regularly sampled cross-shore profiles and shorelines were the basis of the available data sets at Noordwijk beach (The Netherlands), Duck, North Carolina (USA), Sylt (Germany), Lubiatowo (Poland) and Winterton (UK). Additional data sets from Argus video-images (see [Holman, R.A., Stanley, J., 2007. The history, capabilities and future of Argus. Coastal Engineering Special Issue of the CoastView project. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.01.003]) and aerial photographs were used to increase the temporal and spatial resolution of the data sets where possible. The statistical methods applied include some linear and non-linear techniques described by Larson et al. [Larson, M., Capobianco, M., Jansen, H., Rozyfiski, G., Southgate, H.N., Stive, M., Wijnberg, K.M., Hulscher, S., 2003. Analysis and modeling of field data on coastal morphological evolution over yearly and decadal time scales. Part 1: background and linear techniques. Journal of Coastal Research, 19-4, 760-775] and Southgate et al. [Southgate, H.N., Wijnberg, K.M., Larson, M., Capobianco, M., Jansen, H., 2003. Analysis of field data of coastal morphological evolution over yearly to decadal timescales. Part 2: non-linear techniques. Journal of Coastal Research, 19-4, 776-789]. The methods proved to be useful for extracting characteristics of the coastal sedimentary features concerning length scales (e.g., spacing and rhythmicity) and temporal scales (e.g., migration rates and evolutionary patterns). However, the success of the statistical analysis strongly depends on the total size of the data set characterized by the specific spatial coverage, spatial resolution, temporal resolution, and overall length in time. Recent data sets from remote sensing video systems like Argus often meet these requirements and are of major importance for the formulation of conceptual behavior models. (C) 2007 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved. (Less)
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author
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organization
publishing date
type
Contribution to journal
publication status
published
subject
keywords
long-term, morphological evolution, sand waves, shoreline undulations, nearshore bars, visualization, data analysis, complex principal component analysis
in
Coastal Engineering
volume
55
issue
7-8
pages
581 - 600
publisher
Elsevier
external identifiers
  • wos:000257566000002
  • scopus:44949112351
ISSN
0378-3839
DOI
10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.11.006
language
English
LU publication?
yes
id
4b26de11-710d-4155-ac8a-8b7729a87e16 (old id 1255072)
date added to LUP
2016-04-01 14:21:43
date last changed
2022-01-28 00:13:09
@article{4b26de11-710d-4155-ac8a-8b7729a87e16,
  abstract     = {{Statistical analysis of long-term morphological data on coastal sedimentary features provides important information on the processes governing these features and their evolution in space and time. In this paper, seasonal, yearly and decadal (i.e. long-term) behavior of coastal morphological features is derived from field data by using both simple and advanced statistical techniques. The sedimentary features which we are especially focusing on are a) nearshore bars, and b) large-scale shoreline undulations, for example, longshore sand waves and nesses. High-quality bathymetric field data of regularly sampled cross-shore profiles and shorelines were the basis of the available data sets at Noordwijk beach (The Netherlands), Duck, North Carolina (USA), Sylt (Germany), Lubiatowo (Poland) and Winterton (UK). Additional data sets from Argus video-images (see [Holman, R.A., Stanley, J., 2007. The history, capabilities and future of Argus. Coastal Engineering Special Issue of the CoastView project. doi: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.01.003]) and aerial photographs were used to increase the temporal and spatial resolution of the data sets where possible. The statistical methods applied include some linear and non-linear techniques described by Larson et al. [Larson, M., Capobianco, M., Jansen, H., Rozyfiski, G., Southgate, H.N., Stive, M., Wijnberg, K.M., Hulscher, S., 2003. Analysis and modeling of field data on coastal morphological evolution over yearly and decadal time scales. Part 1: background and linear techniques. Journal of Coastal Research, 19-4, 760-775] and Southgate et al. [Southgate, H.N., Wijnberg, K.M., Larson, M., Capobianco, M., Jansen, H., 2003. Analysis of field data of coastal morphological evolution over yearly to decadal timescales. Part 2: non-linear techniques. Journal of Coastal Research, 19-4, 776-789]. The methods proved to be useful for extracting characteristics of the coastal sedimentary features concerning length scales (e.g., spacing and rhythmicity) and temporal scales (e.g., migration rates and evolutionary patterns). However, the success of the statistical analysis strongly depends on the total size of the data set characterized by the specific spatial coverage, spatial resolution, temporal resolution, and overall length in time. Recent data sets from remote sensing video systems like Argus often meet these requirements and are of major importance for the formulation of conceptual behavior models. (C) 2007 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.}},
  author       = {{Kroon, Aart and Larson, Magnus and Moeller, Iris and Yokoki, Hiromune and Rozynski, Grzegorz and Cox, Jon and Larroude, Philippe}},
  issn         = {{0378-3839}},
  keywords     = {{long-term; morphological evolution; sand waves; shoreline undulations; nearshore bars; visualization; data analysis; complex principal component analysis}},
  language     = {{eng}},
  number       = {{7-8}},
  pages        = {{581--600}},
  publisher    = {{Elsevier}},
  series       = {{Coastal Engineering}},
  title        = {{Statistical analysis of coastal morphological data sets over seasonal to decadal time scales}},
  url          = {{http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.11.006}},
  doi          = {{10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.11.006}},
  volume       = {{55}},
  year         = {{2008}},
}