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Predictive formulas for breaker depth index and breaker type

Camenen, Benoit LU and Larson, Magnus LU (2007) In Journal of Coastal Research 23(4). p.1028-1041
Abstract
This study was undertaken to establish the most reliable breaker depth index formula that will yield satisfactory predictions for a wide range of hydraulic and beach conditions. The applicability of six existing formulas for computing the breaker depth index was examined with the use of a large amount of published laboratory data (524 cases collected from 22 sources). The behavior of these formulas was studied with respect to the main governing parameters, which are the beach slope and the deep-water wave steepness. It was found that most formulas show quite good predictions for cases including gentle slopes (0.01 < m <= 0.07). However, the predictions are typically not satisfactory for breaking waves on steep slopes (m > 0.1),... (More)
This study was undertaken to establish the most reliable breaker depth index formula that will yield satisfactory predictions for a wide range of hydraulic and beach conditions. The applicability of six existing formulas for computing the breaker depth index was examined with the use of a large amount of published laboratory data (524 cases collected from 22 sources). The behavior of these formulas was studied with respect to the main governing parameters, which are the beach slope and the deep-water wave steepness. It was found that most formulas show quite good predictions for cases including gentle slopes (0.01 < m <= 0.07). However, the predictions are typically not satisfactory for breaking waves on steep slopes (m > 0.1), and the formulas do not always present a physically correct behavior with respect to the two main parameters. A new formula is proposed to predict the breaker depth index with the best possible accuracy. Also, a discussion is included on the application of the formula to random waves and on the relationship between the breaker depth index and the Irribaren number to distinguish between different breaker types. (Less)
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author
and
organization
publishing date
type
Contribution to journal
publication status
published
subject
keywords
deepwater wave steepness, slope, beach, random waves, breaker type, breaking wave, breaker depth index
in
Journal of Coastal Research
volume
23
issue
4
pages
1028 - 1041
publisher
Coastal Education Research Foundation Inc.
external identifiers
  • wos:000248015400020
  • scopus:34547176360
ISSN
0749-0208
DOI
10.2112/05-0566.1
language
English
LU publication?
yes
id
f801235b-22c4-48f1-a904-db165061a371 (old id 645667)
date added to LUP
2016-04-01 16:56:09
date last changed
2025-01-05 13:23:50
@article{f801235b-22c4-48f1-a904-db165061a371,
  abstract     = {{This study was undertaken to establish the most reliable breaker depth index formula that will yield satisfactory predictions for a wide range of hydraulic and beach conditions. The applicability of six existing formulas for computing the breaker depth index was examined with the use of a large amount of published laboratory data (524 cases collected from 22 sources). The behavior of these formulas was studied with respect to the main governing parameters, which are the beach slope and the deep-water wave steepness. It was found that most formulas show quite good predictions for cases including gentle slopes (0.01 &lt; m &lt;= 0.07). However, the predictions are typically not satisfactory for breaking waves on steep slopes (m &gt; 0.1), and the formulas do not always present a physically correct behavior with respect to the two main parameters. A new formula is proposed to predict the breaker depth index with the best possible accuracy. Also, a discussion is included on the application of the formula to random waves and on the relationship between the breaker depth index and the Irribaren number to distinguish between different breaker types.}},
  author       = {{Camenen, Benoit and Larson, Magnus}},
  issn         = {{0749-0208}},
  keywords     = {{deepwater wave steepness; slope; beach; random waves; breaker type; breaking wave; breaker depth index}},
  language     = {{eng}},
  number       = {{4}},
  pages        = {{1028--1041}},
  publisher    = {{Coastal Education Research Foundation Inc.}},
  series       = {{Journal of Coastal Research}},
  title        = {{Predictive formulas for breaker depth index and breaker type}},
  url          = {{http://dx.doi.org/10.2112/05-0566.1}},
  doi          = {{10.2112/05-0566.1}},
  volume       = {{23}},
  year         = {{2007}},
}