Skip to main content

Lund University Publications

LUND UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES

Numerical Model of Beach Profile Evolution in the Nearshore

Zhang, Jie LU ; Larson, Magnus LU and Ge, Zhen P. (2020) In Journal of Coastal Research 36(3). p.506-520
Abstract
A numerical model was developed to simulate hydrodynamics (waves, currents, and mean water level), cross-shore sediment transport, and beach profile evolution in the nearshore assuming negligible longshore transport gradients. Particular focus was put on describing the response of the subaerial region of the profile, including the foreshore and the berm, as well as the exchange of material between the swash and the surf zone. The model consists of different modules describing wave transformation, cross-shore currents, mean water elevation, and cross-shore sediment transport. For the purpose of model calibration and validation, detailed, high-quality data on hydrodynamics and beach profile response from the SUPERTANK data collection project... (More)
A numerical model was developed to simulate hydrodynamics (waves, currents, and mean water level), cross-shore sediment transport, and beach profile evolution in the nearshore assuming negligible longshore transport gradients. Particular focus was put on describing the response of the subaerial region of the profile, including the foreshore and the berm, as well as the exchange of material between the swash and the surf zone. The model consists of different modules describing wave transformation, cross-shore currents, mean water elevation, and cross-shore sediment transport. For the purpose of model calibration and validation, detailed, high-quality data on hydrodynamics and beach profile response from the SUPERTANK data collection project were employed. The experimental cases studied encompassed several types of profile evolution, including berm erosion and bar formation, berm flooding and erosion, and offshore mound evolution for a narrow- and broad-crested mound. Overall, good agreement was obtained between calculations and measurements, especially for the foreshore and the berm, whereas the calculated bar shape was smoother than the measured shape. The model produced robust and reliable predictions of cross-shore transport and profile evolution for the cases investigated. Subsequent work in model development will involve dune erosion and overwash as well as validation toward field data. (Less)
Please use this url to cite or link to this publication:
author
; and
organization
publishing date
type
Contribution to journal
publication status
published
subject
keywords
bar formation., cross-shore transport, foreshore and berm, Numerical model, profile erosion, storms, SUPERTANK
in
Journal of Coastal Research
volume
36
issue
3
pages
506 - 520
publisher
Coastal Education and Research Foundation
external identifiers
  • scopus:85082421475
ISSN
0749-0208
DOI
10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-19-00065.1
language
English
LU publication?
yes
id
768d684d-ecd4-4a3f-97de-16e94a023159
date added to LUP
2021-01-12 12:36:24
date last changed
2022-04-26 23:24:26
@article{768d684d-ecd4-4a3f-97de-16e94a023159,
  abstract     = {{A numerical model was developed to simulate hydrodynamics (waves, currents, and mean water level), cross-shore sediment transport, and beach profile evolution in the nearshore assuming negligible longshore transport gradients. Particular focus was put on describing the response of the subaerial region of the profile, including the foreshore and the berm, as well as the exchange of material between the swash and the surf zone. The model consists of different modules describing wave transformation, cross-shore currents, mean water elevation, and cross-shore sediment transport. For the purpose of model calibration and validation, detailed, high-quality data on hydrodynamics and beach profile response from the SUPERTANK data collection project were employed. The experimental cases studied encompassed several types of profile evolution, including berm erosion and bar formation, berm flooding and erosion, and offshore mound evolution for a narrow- and broad-crested mound. Overall, good agreement was obtained between calculations and measurements, especially for the foreshore and the berm, whereas the calculated bar shape was smoother than the measured shape. The model produced robust and reliable predictions of cross-shore transport and profile evolution for the cases investigated. Subsequent work in model development will involve dune erosion and overwash as well as validation toward field data.}},
  author       = {{Zhang, Jie and Larson, Magnus and Ge, Zhen P.}},
  issn         = {{0749-0208}},
  keywords     = {{bar formation.; cross-shore transport; foreshore and berm; Numerical model; profile erosion; storms; SUPERTANK}},
  language     = {{eng}},
  number       = {{3}},
  pages        = {{506--520}},
  publisher    = {{Coastal Education and Research Foundation}},
  series       = {{Journal of Coastal Research}},
  title        = {{Numerical Model of Beach Profile Evolution in the Nearshore}},
  url          = {{http://dx.doi.org/10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-19-00065.1}},
  doi          = {{10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-19-00065.1}},
  volume       = {{36}},
  year         = {{2020}},
}