Development and characterization of an eco-friendly cosmeceutical formulation with optimal performance.

Abstract

Cosmetic innovations are about finding high performing creative solutions that deliver into the consumer trends. The consumer trend within the cosmetic industry is currently driving a growing demand for more clean, natural skin care products with sustainable credentials. Enhanced delivery to and interaction with the skin can be achieved through knowledge-based design and characterization of delivery vehicles used for the formulation. The aim of this work was to design and characterize delivery vehicles with enhanced bioavailability and efficacy of bioactive lipids by optimizing the ingredients types and interactions. Firstly, binary emulsifier / water systems, were microscopically characterized and the high purity soy hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine (soy HPC1) produced liquid lamellar phases at compositions of 2 - 40% w/w. Secondly, the ternary phase microstructure of soy HPC1 / water / shea triglyceride system was evaluated using optical microscopy and small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS). The existence of two-phase regions of liquid lamellar crystalline phase (La) and cubic phases, single phase regions of (La) and mixtures of (La) and gel phase was observed at investigated concentrations of 2% - 40% w/w of emulsifier with the concentration of shea triglycerides (TG) maintained at 15% w/w. At a low concentration of 2%, soy HPC1 formed La structures and was chosen as emulsifier of choice for the formulation. The lead formulation was designed with addition of other key ingredients and evaluated. Microscopy and SAXS results of the lead formulation showed La structures and light scattering showed an average droplet size of 68 um with high polydispersity. This was considered ideal for enhanced delivery of both photosteroyl canola glycerides and shea butter triterpene esters. The lead formulation was milky in colour, visually slightly viscous with a silky sensorial feeling on the skin. Further work should be done to optimize the formulation, improve the texture and stability and evaluate the functionality.

Popular Abstract

The demand for natural skincare products has seen a sharp rise in the last couple of years. Nowadays, most consumers prefer products that are effective, clean and derived from natural sources in a way that promotes sustainability. However, natural does not always equate to safe, good and effective. Raw materials and ingredients need modification and/or formulation with other components for them to be used to produce skincare products that are good and effective. The biggest challenge for formulation scientists is to make products that ensure that the right amounts of active ingredients can penetrate the skin resulting in the desired benefits.
Shea butter and canola oils are some of the commonly used oils to make skincare products. Shea butter can be processed to divide it into different fractions, these can be used in different quantities and compositions to make skincare products with desired therapeutic and protective properties or as vehicles to deliver active ingredients into the skin. In this work, derivatives of these oils were used to develop a skincare formulation that can be used to heal the skin or protect it from pollutants, ageing and swelling. To achieve this goal, the formulation must have the ability to ensure an optimal amount of bioactive oils penetrate into the skin epidermis. These oils have proven therapeutic benefits in the skin and it is very important that the developed formulation ensures that a high amount is delivered into the skin. To do this, it is important that the inner structure of the formulation is similar to the structure of the inner skin environment.
In this work, various surface-active agents were investigated to determine which one is most ideal for a formulation that has a desired structure. Highly pure soybean lecithin was found to have superior abilities to form the desired structures as compared to the other soybean and sunflower counterparts investigated. Systems containing the lecithin and water (binary system) and systems containing lecithin water and shea butter oil were prepared (ternary system) using compositions of 2 - 40% w/w lecithin. For the ternary system, 15% w/w oil was used in all formulations. Results showed that 2% soy HPC1 was good enough to form desired structures in an oil in water emulsion. Given this, a formulation was developed and the structure was evaluated using various scientific methods. The results of these studies showed that the developed skincare product has the desired structure and therefore can be recommended for use as a highly functional skincare product that meets our objectives. These results can be used as a starting point for further and future development of skin care products that are highly effective. The stability, cosmetic and aesthetic aspects of the product also require optimization therefore further work is necessary to ensure that all the aspects of an ideal product are fulfilled.

• author: Machingauta, Marshall Ringisayi
• supervisor: Tommy Nylander
• organization: Food Technology and Nutrition (M.Sc.)
• course: KLGM05 20221
• year: 2022
• type: H2 - Master's Degree (Two Years)
• subject: Technology and Engineering
• keywords: Emulsifier, lamellar liquid crystals, o/w emulsions, phosphatidylcholine, small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS), shea butter, pharmaceutical technology
• language: English
• id: 9088443
• date added to LUP: 2022-06-17 08:46:26
• date last changed: 2022-06-17 08:46:26