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Extraction of natural moisturizing factor from the stratum corneum and its implication on skin molecular mobility

Gunnarsson, Maria LU ; Mojumdar, Enamul Haque LU ; Topgaard, Daniel LU and Sparr, Emma LU (2021) In Journal of Colloid and Interface Science 604. p.480-491
Abstract

The natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is a mixture of small water-soluble compounds present in the upper layer of the skin, stratum corneum (SC). Soaking of SC in water leads to extraction of the NMF molecules, which may influence the SC molecular properties and lead to brittle and dry skin. In this study, we investigate how the molecular dynamics in SC lipid and protein components are affected by the removal of the NMF compounds. We then explore whether the changes in SC components caused by NMF removal can be reversed by a subsequent addition of one single NMF component: urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) or potassium lactate. Samples of intact SC were investigated using NMR, X-ray diffraction, infrared spectroscopy and sorption... (More)

The natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is a mixture of small water-soluble compounds present in the upper layer of the skin, stratum corneum (SC). Soaking of SC in water leads to extraction of the NMF molecules, which may influence the SC molecular properties and lead to brittle and dry skin. In this study, we investigate how the molecular dynamics in SC lipid and protein components are affected by the removal of the NMF compounds. We then explore whether the changes in SC components caused by NMF removal can be reversed by a subsequent addition of one single NMF component: urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) or potassium lactate. Samples of intact SC were investigated using NMR, X-ray diffraction, infrared spectroscopy and sorption microbalance. It is shown that the removal of NMF leads to reduced molecular mobility in keratin filaments and SC lipids compared to untreated SC. When the complex NMF mixture is replaced by one single NMF component, the molecular mobility in both keratin filaments and lipids is regained. From this we propose a general relation between the molecular mobility in SC and the amount of polar solutes which does not appear specific to the precise chemical identify of the NMF compounds.

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author
; ; and
organization
publishing date
type
Contribution to journal
publication status
published
subject
keywords
ATR-FTIR, Natural moisturizing factor, NMF, SAXD, Solid-state NMR, Stratum corneum, WAXD
in
Journal of Colloid and Interface Science
volume
604
pages
12 pages
publisher
Elsevier
external identifiers
  • pmid:34273783
  • scopus:85110022240
ISSN
0021-9797
DOI
10.1016/j.jcis.2021.07.012
language
English
LU publication?
yes
id
2611dd94-bc35-4588-b993-f9798aa26510
date added to LUP
2021-12-23 11:01:08
date last changed
2024-04-20 19:18:06
@article{2611dd94-bc35-4588-b993-f9798aa26510,
  abstract     = {{<p>The natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is a mixture of small water-soluble compounds present in the upper layer of the skin, stratum corneum (SC). Soaking of SC in water leads to extraction of the NMF molecules, which may influence the SC molecular properties and lead to brittle and dry skin. In this study, we investigate how the molecular dynamics in SC lipid and protein components are affected by the removal of the NMF compounds. We then explore whether the changes in SC components caused by NMF removal can be reversed by a subsequent addition of one single NMF component: urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) or potassium lactate. Samples of intact SC were investigated using NMR, X-ray diffraction, infrared spectroscopy and sorption microbalance. It is shown that the removal of NMF leads to reduced molecular mobility in keratin filaments and SC lipids compared to untreated SC. When the complex NMF mixture is replaced by one single NMF component, the molecular mobility in both keratin filaments and lipids is regained. From this we propose a general relation between the molecular mobility in SC and the amount of polar solutes which does not appear specific to the precise chemical identify of the NMF compounds.</p>}},
  author       = {{Gunnarsson, Maria and Mojumdar, Enamul Haque and Topgaard, Daniel and Sparr, Emma}},
  issn         = {{0021-9797}},
  keywords     = {{ATR-FTIR; Natural moisturizing factor; NMF; SAXD; Solid-state NMR; Stratum corneum; WAXD}},
  language     = {{eng}},
  pages        = {{480--491}},
  publisher    = {{Elsevier}},
  series       = {{Journal of Colloid and Interface Science}},
  title        = {{Extraction of natural moisturizing factor from the stratum corneum and its implication on skin molecular mobility}},
  url          = {{http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jcis.2021.07.012}},
  doi          = {{10.1016/j.jcis.2021.07.012}},
  volume       = {{604}},
  year         = {{2021}},
}