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Modehistoria : Det på ytan ytliga?

Severinsson, Emma LU orcid (2026) In Scandia 92(1). p.145-155
Abstract
The field of Swedish fashion history is expanding more than ever before, but it remains a small and vulnerable environment. Few researchers devote themselves to fashion history as their main area of expertise. Fashion history is a relatively new field of research with roots in ethnology, art history, and museums. Today, there is a Swedish fashion history network, but the environment needs to be strengthened with doctoral projects and more collaboration. For a long time, fashion was associated with superficiality in both everyday life and in academia. Fashion was therefore not seen as an important social phenomenon until the 1980s, when British researchers published significant studies. This also influenced the emergence ... (More)
The field of Swedish fashion history is expanding more than ever before, but it remains a small and vulnerable environment. Few researchers devote themselves to fashion history as their main area of expertise. Fashion history is a relatively new field of research with roots in ethnology, art history, and museums. Today, there is a Swedish fashion history network, but the environment needs to be strengthened with doctoral projects and more collaboration. For a long time, fashion was associated with superficiality in both everyday life and in academia. Fashion was therefore not seen as an important social phenomenon until the 1980s, when British researchers published significant studies. This also influenced the emergence of the field in Sweden. For a long time, fashion historians focused on studies of fashion in relation to constructions of femininity, while men’s clothing was overlooked. Since the end of the 2000s, this has changed, both internationally and in Sweden. Today, a great deal of research is being conducted on men’s fashion in Sweden, given the size of the field. The main criticism, however, is that fashion history research is Eurocentric, both in terms of the places studied and the narrative of fashion’s development. For a long time, the idea that fashion only existed in the Western world has characterized research. This has been debated since ”the global turn”, and has resulted in a broadening of the field of fashion history. (Less)
Abstract (Swedish)
Området svensk modehistoria växer mer än någonsin tidigare, men det är fortfarande en liten och sårbar miljö. Få forskare ägnar sig åt modehistoria som sitt huvudsakliga expertområde. Modehistoria är ett relativt nytt forskningsområde med rötter i etnologi, konsthistoria och museiverksamhet. Idag finns det ett svenskt nätverk för modehistoria, men miljön behöver stärkas genom doktorandprojekt och ökat samarbete. Under lång tid förknippades mode med ytlighet, både i vardagen och inom den akademiska världen. Mode betraktades därför inte som ett viktigt samhällsfenomen förrän på 1980-talet, då brittiska forskare publicerade betydande studier. Detta påverkade även uppkomsten av fältet i Sverige. Under lång tid fokuserade modehistoriker på... (More)
Området svensk modehistoria växer mer än någonsin tidigare, men det är fortfarande en liten och sårbar miljö. Få forskare ägnar sig åt modehistoria som sitt huvudsakliga expertområde. Modehistoria är ett relativt nytt forskningsområde med rötter i etnologi, konsthistoria och museiverksamhet. Idag finns det ett svenskt nätverk för modehistoria, men miljön behöver stärkas genom doktorandprojekt och ökat samarbete. Under lång tid förknippades mode med ytlighet, både i vardagen och inom den akademiska världen. Mode betraktades därför inte som ett viktigt samhällsfenomen förrän på 1980-talet, då brittiska forskare publicerade betydande studier. Detta påverkade även uppkomsten av fältet i Sverige. Under lång tid fokuserade modehistoriker på studier av mode i relation till konstruktioner av kvinnlighet, medan herrkläder förbisågs. Sedan slutet av 2000-talet har detta förändrats, både internationellt och i Sverige. Idag bedrivs en hel del forskning om herrmode i Sverige, med tanke på områdets storlek. Den huvudsakliga kritiken är dock att modehistorisk forskning är eurocentrisk, både vad gäller de platser som studeras och berättelsen om modets utveckling. Under lång tid har forskningen präglats av uppfattningen att mode endast existerade i västvärlden. Detta har debatterats sedan ”den globala vändningen” och har resulterat i en breddning av modehistoriens fält.

(Översatt från engelska med hjälp av DeepL Translate). (Less)
Please use this url to cite or link to this publication:
author
organization
alternative title
Swedish Fashion History Today
publishing date
type
Contribution to journal
publication status
published
subject
keywords
modehistoria, klädeshistoria, genus, Global modehistoria, manliga avsägelsen, Sverige, Fashion History, Dress History, Gender, Global Fashion History, The Male Renunciation, Sweden
in
Scandia
volume
92
issue
1
pages
11 pages
publisher
Statens Humanistiska Forskningsrad
external identifiers
  • scopus:105042598040
ISSN
0036-5483
DOI
10.47868/scandia.v92i1.29341
language
Swedish
LU publication?
yes
additional info
Section of journal: "Scandia utblick".
id
2a91a9ac-ba74-48d4-aede-fc1b6363e30b
alternative location
https://journals.lub.lu.se/scandia/article/view/29341/25222
date added to LUP
2026-06-01 14:39:52
date last changed
2026-06-30 04:00:54
@article{2a91a9ac-ba74-48d4-aede-fc1b6363e30b,
  abstract     = {{The field of Swedish fashion history is expanding more than ever before, but it remains a small and vulnerable environment. Few researchers devote themselves to fashion history as their main area of expertise. Fashion history is a relatively new field of research with roots in ethnology, art history, and museums. Today, there is a Swedish fashion history network, but the environment  needs  to  be  strengthened  with  doctoral  projects  and  more  collaboration. For a long time, fashion was associated with superficiality in both everyday life and in academia. Fashion was therefore not seen as an important social phenomenon until the 1980s, when British researchers published  significant  studies.  This  also  influenced  the  emergence  of  the  field in Sweden. For a long time, fashion historians focused on studies of fashion in relation to constructions of femininity, while men’s clothing was overlooked. Since the end of the 2000s, this has changed, both internationally and in Sweden. Today, a great deal of research is being conducted on men’s fashion in Sweden, given the size of the field. The main criticism, however, is that fashion history research is Eurocentric, both in terms of the places studied and the narrative of fashion’s development. For a long time, the idea that fashion only existed in the Western world has characterized research. This has been debated since ”the global turn”, and has resulted in a broadening of the field of fashion history.}},
  author       = {{Severinsson, Emma}},
  issn         = {{0036-5483}},
  keywords     = {{modehistoria; klädeshistoria; genus; Global modehistoria; manliga avsägelsen; Sverige; Fashion History; Dress History; Gender; Global Fashion History; The Male Renunciation; Sweden}},
  language     = {{swe}},
  number       = {{1}},
  pages        = {{145--155}},
  publisher    = {{Statens Humanistiska Forskningsrad}},
  series       = {{Scandia}},
  title        = {{Modehistoria : Det på ytan ytliga?}},
  url          = {{http://dx.doi.org/10.47868/scandia.v92i1.29341}},
  doi          = {{10.47868/scandia.v92i1.29341}},
  volume       = {{92}},
  year         = {{2026}},
}