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Simulating cross-shore material exchange at decadal scale. Model application

Palalane, Jaime LU ; Fredriksson, Caroline LU ; Marinho, Bárbara ; Larson, Magnus LU ; Hanson, Hans LU and Coelho, Carlos (2016) In Coastal Engineering 116. p.26-41
Abstract

A model developed to describe long-term cross-shore (CS) exchange of sand and resulting profile evolution at regional scale was employed to simulate the evolution at three different sites. The model consists of modules for calculating dune erosion and overwash, bar-berm material exchange, and dune build-up by wind-blown sand transport, as described in detail in a companion paper (Larson et al., 2016). Selected study sites represent coastal stretches influenced by beach nourishment (Barra in Portugal), overwash and breaching (Macaneta spit in Mozambique), and dune development (Ängelholm in Sweden). The model applications showed overall good performance and the results of the simulations are promising. Due to limitations in data... (More)

A model developed to describe long-term cross-shore (CS) exchange of sand and resulting profile evolution at regional scale was employed to simulate the evolution at three different sites. The model consists of modules for calculating dune erosion and overwash, bar-berm material exchange, and dune build-up by wind-blown sand transport, as described in detail in a companion paper (Larson et al., 2016). Selected study sites represent coastal stretches influenced by beach nourishment (Barra in Portugal), overwash and breaching (Macaneta spit in Mozambique), and dune development (Ängelholm in Sweden). The model applications showed overall good performance and the results of the simulations are promising. Due to limitations in data availability in Ängelholm and Macaneta, values on calibration parameters were mainly determined based on previous studies. For Barra, where more field measurements were available, the application showed good agreement between the simulated results and observations. The CS-model proved to be a useful tool to predict long-term evolution of beach-dune systems in a time perspective from years to decades. However, additional efforts should be directed towards improving the schematized model profile so that it can better represent other beach shapes such as a sloping berm or a barrier shape.

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author
; ; ; ; and
organization
publishing date
type
Contribution to journal
publication status
published
subject
keywords
Bar volume, Barra, Cross-shore transport, Dune erosion, Long-term profile evolution, Macaneta, Mathematical model, Overwash, Regional coastal evolution, Wind-blown sand, Ängelholm
in
Coastal Engineering
volume
116
pages
16 pages
publisher
Elsevier
external identifiers
  • scopus:84974555768
  • wos:000382597300003
ISSN
0378-3839
DOI
10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.05.007
language
English
LU publication?
yes
id
a7b96a42-df94-414d-b5d8-3159cc67ae62
date added to LUP
2016-10-17 09:58:56
date last changed
2024-06-15 18:30:25
@article{a7b96a42-df94-414d-b5d8-3159cc67ae62,
  abstract     = {{<p>A model developed to describe long-term cross-shore (CS) exchange of sand and resulting profile evolution at regional scale was employed to simulate the evolution at three different sites. The model consists of modules for calculating dune erosion and overwash, bar-berm material exchange, and dune build-up by wind-blown sand transport, as described in detail in a companion paper (Larson et al., 2016). Selected study sites represent coastal stretches influenced by beach nourishment (Barra in Portugal), overwash and breaching (Macaneta spit in Mozambique), and dune development (Ängelholm in Sweden). The model applications showed overall good performance and the results of the simulations are promising. Due to limitations in data availability in Ängelholm and Macaneta, values on calibration parameters were mainly determined based on previous studies. For Barra, where more field measurements were available, the application showed good agreement between the simulated results and observations. The CS-model proved to be a useful tool to predict long-term evolution of beach-dune systems in a time perspective from years to decades. However, additional efforts should be directed towards improving the schematized model profile so that it can better represent other beach shapes such as a sloping berm or a barrier shape.</p>}},
  author       = {{Palalane, Jaime and Fredriksson, Caroline and Marinho, Bárbara and Larson, Magnus and Hanson, Hans and Coelho, Carlos}},
  issn         = {{0378-3839}},
  keywords     = {{Bar volume; Barra; Cross-shore transport; Dune erosion; Long-term profile evolution; Macaneta; Mathematical model; Overwash; Regional coastal evolution; Wind-blown sand; Ängelholm}},
  language     = {{eng}},
  month        = {{10}},
  pages        = {{26--41}},
  publisher    = {{Elsevier}},
  series       = {{Coastal Engineering}},
  title        = {{Simulating cross-shore material exchange at decadal scale. Model application}},
  url          = {{http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.05.007}},
  doi          = {{10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.05.007}},
  volume       = {{116}},
  year         = {{2016}},
}