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Governing Emissions Beyond Ownership: H&M’s Scope 3 Governance in the Garment Value Chain

Lind, Louise LU (2026) SGEM08 20261
Department of Human Geography
Abstract
This thesis examines how H&M’s scope 3 emission governance is connected to the distributionof power, responsibility, and value between H&M and its garment manufacturing suppliers.The background explains why scope 3 emissions are particularly relevant in the garmentindustry, where many emissions occur outside H&M’s direct operations. Drawing on a Global Production Network perspective, the study understands H&M as a lead firm in an outsourcedproduction network. Methodologically, it uses qualitative document analysis of H&M reports,policy documents, NGO reports, media articles, and industry sources concerning suppliers andgarment production contexts. The empirical findings show that H&M governs without owningfactories through climate targets,... (More)
This thesis examines how H&M’s scope 3 emission governance is connected to the distributionof power, responsibility, and value between H&M and its garment manufacturing suppliers.The background explains why scope 3 emissions are particularly relevant in the garmentindustry, where many emissions occur outside H&M’s direct operations. Drawing on a Global Production Network perspective, the study understands H&M as a lead firm in an outsourcedproduction network. Methodologically, it uses qualitative document analysis of H&M reports,policy documents, NGO reports, media articles, and industry sources concerning suppliers andgarment production contexts. The empirical findings show that H&M governs without owningfactories through climate targets, supplier requirements, reporting systems, monitoring, andsupport programmes. The material concerning suppliers indicates that suppliers are expected toimplement environmental practices and provide data while operating under cost pressure anddependency. The discussion argues that scope 3 governance can support emission reductionsand environmental upgrading, but also raises questions about data reliability, cost distribution,and value capture within the value chain. The study concludes that responsibility is shared, butthat H&M is better positioned to define expectations and capture strategic benefits, whilesuppliers may face uncertain economic returns. (Less)
Please use this url to cite or link to this publication:
author
Lind, Louise LU
supervisor
organization
course
SGEM08 20261
year
type
H2 - Master's Degree (Two Years)
subject
keywords
Sustainability governance, garment industry, Global Production Network, environmental upgrading, Scope 3
language
English
id
9232841
date added to LUP
2026-06-24 07:53:58
date last changed
2026-06-24 07:53:58
@misc{9232841,
  abstract     = {{This thesis examines how H&M’s scope 3 emission governance is connected to the distributionof power, responsibility, and value between H&M and its garment manufacturing suppliers.The background explains why scope 3 emissions are particularly relevant in the garmentindustry, where many emissions occur outside H&M’s direct operations. Drawing on a Global Production Network perspective, the study understands H&M as a lead firm in an outsourcedproduction network. Methodologically, it uses qualitative document analysis of H&M reports,policy documents, NGO reports, media articles, and industry sources concerning suppliers andgarment production contexts. The empirical findings show that H&M governs without owningfactories through climate targets, supplier requirements, reporting systems, monitoring, andsupport programmes. The material concerning suppliers indicates that suppliers are expected toimplement environmental practices and provide data while operating under cost pressure anddependency. The discussion argues that scope 3 governance can support emission reductionsand environmental upgrading, but also raises questions about data reliability, cost distribution,and value capture within the value chain. The study concludes that responsibility is shared, butthat H&M is better positioned to define expectations and capture strategic benefits, whilesuppliers may face uncertain economic returns.}},
  author       = {{Lind, Louise}},
  language     = {{eng}},
  note         = {{Student Paper}},
  title        = {{Governing Emissions Beyond Ownership: H&M’s Scope 3 Governance in the Garment Value Chain}},
  year         = {{2026}},
}