Skip to main content

Lund University Publications

LUND UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES

Analytical model of beach erosion and overwash during storms

Larson, Magnus LU ; Donnelly, Chantal LU ; Jimenez, Jose and Hanson, Hans LU (2009) In Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers. Maritime Engineering 162(3). p.115-125
Abstract
During severe storms high waves and water levels may greatly impact the sub-aerial portion of the beach inducing significant morphological change at elevations that the waves can not reach under normal conditions. Morphological formations such as dunes and barrier islands may suffer from direct wave impact and erode. Overwash occurs if the wave run-up and/or the mean water level are sufficiently high allowing for water and sediment to pass over the beach crest, which in turn causes flooding and deposition of sediment shoreward of the crest. An analytical model of sub-aerial beach response to storms was developed based on impact theory, including overwash, and the evolution of schematised dunes was investigated. Furthermore, the analytical... (More)
During severe storms high waves and water levels may greatly impact the sub-aerial portion of the beach inducing significant morphological change at elevations that the waves can not reach under normal conditions. Morphological formations such as dunes and barrier islands may suffer from direct wave impact and erode. Overwash occurs if the wave run-up and/or the mean water level are sufficiently high allowing for water and sediment to pass over the beach crest, which in turn causes flooding and deposition of sediment shoreward of the crest. An analytical model of sub-aerial beach response to storms was developed based on impact theory, including overwash, and the evolution of schematised dunes was investigated. Furthermore, the analytical model was applied to the case of schematised barrier islands exposed to extensive overwash. After validation using field data, the analytical model was employed at two coastal sites, namely Ocean City on the United States east coast and the Ebro Delta on the Spanish Mediterranean coast, in order to calculate quantities for assessing the storm impact on beaches, such as eroded volume, overwash volume, beach crest reduction, and contour-line retreat. These quantities were subsequently analysed to derive empirical probability distribution functions to be utilised in different types of risk assessment concerning flooding and erosion in coastal areas. (Less)
Please use this url to cite or link to this publication:
author
; ; and
organization
publishing date
type
Contribution to journal
publication status
published
subject
keywords
coastal engineering, hydraulics, hydrodynamics/mathematical modelling
in
Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers. Maritime Engineering
volume
162
issue
3
pages
115 - 125
publisher
ICE UK
external identifiers
  • wos:000272396400004
  • scopus:77956420195
ISSN
1741-7597
DOI
10.1680/maen.2009.162.3.115
language
English
LU publication?
yes
id
f6fb429f-161e-4e6f-8e36-06d18ab3766c (old id 771954)
date added to LUP
2016-04-01 13:23:54
date last changed
2022-03-29 07:19:39
@article{f6fb429f-161e-4e6f-8e36-06d18ab3766c,
  abstract     = {{During severe storms high waves and water levels may greatly impact the sub-aerial portion of the beach inducing significant morphological change at elevations that the waves can not reach under normal conditions. Morphological formations such as dunes and barrier islands may suffer from direct wave impact and erode. Overwash occurs if the wave run-up and/or the mean water level are sufficiently high allowing for water and sediment to pass over the beach crest, which in turn causes flooding and deposition of sediment shoreward of the crest. An analytical model of sub-aerial beach response to storms was developed based on impact theory, including overwash, and the evolution of schematised dunes was investigated. Furthermore, the analytical model was applied to the case of schematised barrier islands exposed to extensive overwash. After validation using field data, the analytical model was employed at two coastal sites, namely Ocean City on the United States east coast and the Ebro Delta on the Spanish Mediterranean coast, in order to calculate quantities for assessing the storm impact on beaches, such as eroded volume, overwash volume, beach crest reduction, and contour-line retreat. These quantities were subsequently analysed to derive empirical probability distribution functions to be utilised in different types of risk assessment concerning flooding and erosion in coastal areas.}},
  author       = {{Larson, Magnus and Donnelly, Chantal and Jimenez, Jose and Hanson, Hans}},
  issn         = {{1741-7597}},
  keywords     = {{coastal engineering; hydraulics; hydrodynamics/mathematical modelling}},
  language     = {{eng}},
  number       = {{3}},
  pages        = {{115--125}},
  publisher    = {{ICE UK}},
  series       = {{Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers. Maritime Engineering}},
  title        = {{Analytical model of beach erosion and overwash during storms}},
  url          = {{https://lup.lub.lu.se/search/files/3342522/3559244.pdf}},
  doi          = {{10.1680/maen.2009.162.3.115}},
  volume       = {{162}},
  year         = {{2009}},
}