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Recycling Cellulosic Textile Waste : Combining Closed- and Open-Loop Recycling in a Cascade Chain to Maximise Value Recovery

Bågenholm-Ruuth, Edvin LU orcid (2026)
Abstract
The environmental impact of the textile industry is immense, and textile waste is
accumulating globally at an unprecedented rate. To address this issue, innovative
technologies for handling, sorting, and recycling textile waste are crucial. This thesis
presents a comprehensive study on the recycling of cellulosic textile waste through both
closed-loop and open-loop pathways.
Closed-loop recycling is demonstrated using hydrated zinc chloride to dissolve and
regenerate cellulosic textiles into recycled fibres, either via dissolving pulp or through
direct spinning from solution, with process conditions enabling precise control of
intrinsic viscosity and cellulose structure. Open-loop recycling is... (More)
The environmental impact of the textile industry is immense, and textile waste is
accumulating globally at an unprecedented rate. To address this issue, innovative
technologies for handling, sorting, and recycling textile waste are crucial. This thesis
presents a comprehensive study on the recycling of cellulosic textile waste through both
closed-loop and open-loop pathways.
Closed-loop recycling is demonstrated using hydrated zinc chloride to dissolve and
regenerate cellulosic textiles into recycled fibres, either via dissolving pulp or through
direct spinning from solution, with process conditions enabling precise control of
intrinsic viscosity and cellulose structure. Open-loop recycling is achieved by further
valorising the dissolving pulp or by hydrolysing the waste, chemically or enzymatically,
depending on the composition of the waste.
Further valorisation is demonstrated through lactic acid fermentation using viscose
hydrolysate as a substrate, and alternative applications for the non-hydrolysable fraction
are also presented. Finally, all developed processes are integrated into a cascade chain,
forming a cohesive strategy for recycling cellulosic textile waste. This approach ensures
maximal value recovery and enables each waste fraction to be directed to the most
suitable recycling pathway. (Less)
Please use this url to cite or link to this publication:
author
supervisor
opponent
  • Assoc. Prof. Hummel, Michael, Aalto University, Finland.
organization
publishing date
type
Thesis
publication status
published
subject
keywords
Textile recycling, Cellulosic textile waste, Post-consumer textile waste, Fibre-to-fibre recycling, Hydrolysis, Pretreatment, Fermentation, Closed-loop recycling, Open-loop recycling, Cascading recycling, Cascade chain, Cellulose, Cotton, Viscose, Hydrated molten salt, Zinc chloride, Waste valorisation, Process design
pages
212 pages
publisher
Department of Process and Life Science Engineering, Lund University.
defense location
Lecture Hall KC:A, Kemicentrum, Naturvetarvägen 22, Faculty of Engineering LTH, Lund University, Lund. The dissertation will be live streamed, but part of the premises is to be excluded from the live stream.
defense date
2026-05-08 09:00:00
ISBN
978-91-8104-880-3
978-91-8104-881-0
language
English
LU publication?
yes
id
eba29463-b8bd-44ab-a447-a4de3ab1a28b
date added to LUP
2026-04-14 10:06:56
date last changed
2026-04-15 07:57:55
@phdthesis{eba29463-b8bd-44ab-a447-a4de3ab1a28b,
  abstract     = {{The environmental impact of the textile industry is immense, and textile waste is <br/>accumulating globally at an unprecedented rate. To address this issue, innovative <br/>technologies for handling, sorting, and recycling textile waste are crucial. This thesis <br/>presents a comprehensive study on the recycling of cellulosic textile waste through both <br/>closed-loop and open-loop pathways. <br/>Closed-loop recycling is demonstrated using hydrated zinc chloride to dissolve and <br/>regenerate cellulosic textiles into recycled fibres, either via dissolving pulp or through <br/>direct spinning from solution, with process conditions enabling precise control of <br/>intrinsic viscosity and cellulose structure. Open-loop recycling is achieved by further <br/>valorising the dissolving pulp or by hydrolysing the waste, chemically or enzymatically, <br/>depending on the composition of the waste. <br/>Further valorisation is demonstrated through lactic acid fermentation using viscose <br/>hydrolysate as a substrate, and alternative applications for the non-hydrolysable fraction <br/>are also presented. Finally, all developed processes are integrated into a cascade chain, <br/>forming a cohesive strategy for recycling cellulosic textile waste. This approach ensures <br/>maximal value recovery and enables each waste fraction to be directed to the most <br/>suitable recycling pathway.}},
  author       = {{Bågenholm-Ruuth, Edvin}},
  isbn         = {{978-91-8104-880-3}},
  keywords     = {{Textile recycling; Cellulosic textile waste; Post-consumer textile waste; Fibre-to-fibre recycling; Hydrolysis; Pretreatment; Fermentation; Closed-loop recycling; Open-loop recycling; Cascading recycling; Cascade chain; Cellulose; Cotton; Viscose; Hydrated molten salt; Zinc chloride; Waste valorisation; Process design}},
  language     = {{eng}},
  month        = {{05}},
  publisher    = {{Department of Process and Life Science Engineering, Lund University.}},
  school       = {{Lund University}},
  title        = {{Recycling Cellulosic Textile Waste : Combining Closed- and Open-Loop Recycling in a Cascade Chain to Maximise Value Recovery}},
  url          = {{https://lup.lub.lu.se/search/files/247435126/Avhandling_Edvin_BR_LUCRIS.pdf}},
  year         = {{2026}},
}